What elevates a meal into a ‘moment’? The answer may be hard to define; but easy to feel. Yet, this ineffable sense pervades Sushi Hare, the fine sushi omakase 10-seater restaurant helmed by Chef Angus Chang. Hare (晴) refers to clear skies. In this vision of light rays on a sunny day, one feels the warmth of the chef and his team in their genuine efforts to bring happiness to guests, through a tranquil and transporting dining experience. At Sushi Hare, Chef Angus welcomes you to his home.
The Taiwanese-born chef is steeped in the Japanese spirit of Shokunin (職⼈), and his native values of Ren qing wei (⼈情味). His work and personal journey reflect these two pillars of virtue which together transform the phrase ‘as if I was dining at a friend’s home’ from hollow trope into transcendent reality.
Shokunin is integral to Japanese culture. While often taken to mean ‘artisan’ or ‘craftsman’, Shokunin also describes a process and a mindset. It is the striving for the highest standards, even perfection; a profound respect for nature and materials; and the achievement of mastery through endless repetition. The Shokunin exists in a community, making products that serve people, and contributing to a shared future.
At Sushi Hare, the ethos of ‘A Lifetime of Devotion, Respecting Nature, and Crafting to Serve People’ guides Chef Angus’s sushi creation. His tutelage under sushi masters began with a 7-year apprenticeship leading to being an itamae, a skilled sushi chef ‘in front of the cutting board’. Driven to learn, he spent his time off-work dining at various sushi restaurants. And already a devotee of Shokunin, he would squeeze a rolled bandage at every chance he got to improve his skills at moulding sushi. His eye was set on mastery.
When he landed a position on the opening team of a sushi and tempura restaurant, he gained valuable insights into setting up a new business. As his skills expanded and instincts grew, more opportunities came his way, culminating in Sushi Hare.
As part of personal development, a Shokunin is expected to constantly evolve. Chef Angus delves into his own heritage and into other restaurants. He frequently visits the metropolis of Tokyo, Japan, to seek inspiration for new recipes. He sources ingredients himself through multiple trials, knowing they are key to making exceptional sushi – rice from Yamagata, water from Hokkaido, five types of vinegar to marry and make different shari or sushi rice, and top-grade soy sauce aged in a wooden barrel to blend with other seasoning bases and brush onto the neta or sushi topping.
Perfection is always at the forefront. Chef Angus prepares his seasonings and sauces for sushi with precision. He employs the exact cutting method to highlight the natural characteristics of fish and seafood. An instance is the Sushi Hare specialty, Chutoro, a sashimi course evocative of eating Tsukemen noodles dipped in a savoury sauce. Chef Angus’s rendition features semi-fatty tuna, wet-aged and deftly sliced into strips of optimal thickness for dipping into a konbu-marinated soy sauce, and crowned with Hokkaido uni and crispy, roasted seaweed.
At Sushi Hare, there is community. Chef Angus works within an eco-system of fishermen, farmers, and producers, as well as potters and wood craftsmen. In true Shokunin spirit, each brings with them their unique skill, wisdom, and artistic vision, in the shared enterprise of bringing delight to the guests of the restaurant.
Ren qing wei is the gift bestowed by birth. Growing up in Taiwanese society, considered among the friendliest in the world, with a mother who cooked and hosted frequently, Chef Angus naturally expressed Ren qing wei, loosely translated as ‘the flavour of humanity’. By putting oneself in the shoes of others, so to speak, one learns genuine empathy and compassion. In Ren qing wei, warmth, generosity, and placing others before self are the traits most prized.
At Sushi Hare, each sushi is a precious gift to the guest for their valued patronage. Chef Angus carefully considers each item on the menu to choreograph gradual crescendos at various junctures to enhance enjoyment. And as a holder of certification in sake, he is able to offer expert pairing recommendations.
Chef Angus also opens his ‘home’ to guests with glimpses of his Taiwanese heritage. Recalling the comforting warmth of a bowl of Taiwanese Lu Rou Fan (滷⾁飯), he grills Hotaru Ika or firefly squid over binchotan and wara straw for a slight smokiness, then places it atop white vinegared rice delicately flavoured with grilled Botan Ebi prawn heads, finishing with finely chopped spring onions and soy sauce.
With his service team, the chef makes sure every little detail is consummate Ren qing wei. Like discreetly observing to assess whether a guest is seeking conversation – which he then gladly provides – or privacy. Like asking for the preferred amount of rice and wasabi. Like noting aversions, and ensuring returning guests are presented with a menu different from the last. Like arranging cutlery in accordance with a guest’s dominant hand. Like not refilling, but instead replacing a cup of tea to ensure consistent temperature. Like pouring Champagne to a level appropriate for frequent top-ups, so that the guest will always savour it bubbly and crisp.
From sourcing of ingredient to knife stroke to menu sequence to service – in every movement, word and gesture – Chef Angus puts himself in the shoes of his guest in order to anticipate and respond with alacrity. Shokunin and Ren qing wei are truly palpable here.
The restaurant space is equally well-considered. Designed as a traditional Japanese residence bathed in soft glowing ‘sunlight’, it exudes warmth and tranquillity. Around a seamless hinoki-top sushi counter, guests sit to receive their exquisite ‘gifts’ as the scent of cypress lightly perfumes the air, and as Chef and serving team work as one with discreet attentiveness, and a sincere personal touch.
Guests stepping into the restaurant feel completely at ease, be it the first, second or hundredth visit. To dine at Sushi Hare is to be at home with Chef Angus Chang – and in the presence of joy, comfort, and memories.
Address: 14 Stanley St, Singapore 068733
Reservations: Online
