Autumn seems to be a rather polarising season. On one hand, it signals the approaching end of year with falling leaves symbolising change and the potential gloom of dark winter, but on the other, it is also the season of harvest, a time of joyful abundance, full of deliciousness.
Naturally, our eyes are firmly kept on the latter; as eminent American poet Paul Laurence Dunbar describes, in autumn “… Nature, all from earth to sky, is bubbling o’er with laughter… The earth is just so full of fun it really can’t contain it.”
If “it” refers to the wonderful harvests of autumn, then we have good news for the earth – our bellies can’t wait to contain all of nature’s gifts. Here’re some of our favourite autumn menus in alphabetical order!
(Hero image - L-R: Crystal Dumpling from ASU; Shabu Style Toriyama Umami Wagyu from Fat Cow; Sanma Claypot Rice from Iru Den)
ASU
ASU opened at the perfect time for Chef Ace to use some of the most eye-catching produce. When combined with his deft incorporation of Traditional Chinese Medicine dietary therapy principles, the opening menu of ASU is one of the most delicious and healthful ways to taste the joy of autumn.
We’re particularly enamoured with the Crystal Dumpling – borne from Chef Ace’s childhood fascination with the ‘shui jing bao’. Here, the crystal skin is a translucent creation, inspired by Spanish crystal bread, made from a batter of potato starch and kuzu root powder. It encases the luxurious ise ebi or spiny lobster, widely acknowledged to be “in season” now when the flesh becomes especially sweet and firm as the seawaters it lives in becomes colder and colder.
A house-pickled disc of bamboo shoot, redolent with a blend of Chinese rice vinegar, sesame seeds, perilla oil and soy sauce, offers balance to the richness of the lobster. Golden chives and white fungus adds texture while nourishing the lungs and stomach.
Esora's Autumn Ingredients
ESORA
If you’re too busy to head to Japan as Q4 approaches, then visit Michelin-one-star Esora where Chef Takeshi Araki brings you on a momijigari excursion to appreciate the fleeting beauty of autumn and ingredients carefully harvested at the height of their flavours.
Every plate of the 7- and 10-course dinner menus ($238++ and $368++ respectively) are an expression of shun, capturing the moment when nature reveals its finest gifts. We strongly recommend going for the 10-course menu – just for the exclusive cold dish that spotlights autumn fruits. The puree of jumbo shiitake, lantern berry, black fig and cucumber are paired with botan ebi and uni and then finished with Japanese olive oil and amaranthus flower. Its beautiful presentation belies the complexity of flavours, and the perfect highlight of natural flavours.
However, we’re equally excited about the new Signature Feature Menu. Though a newly curated 7-course lunch ($178++), Chef Araki’s culinary approach – rooted in Kisetsukan, the emotional connection to nature’s transitions – still shine through. Consider the opening course of its signature foie gras monaka now featuring prized autumn fruit, kosui pear; and how it perfectly segues into the deboned chicken wing, stuffed with a juicy medley of autumn mushrooms so that each bite is rich with umami earthy flavours. Better yet, they can be gently washed down with the new menu’s complimentary glass of champagne or sparkling tea.
FAT COW
The wagyu specialist is not always the first to come to mind when it comes to seasonality, but these new autumn menus show that this should change. Head Chef Shingo Iijima introduces a new Chef’s Table Omakase for autumn – imbued with his signature blend of washoku and kaiseki elements to more intricately highlight the natural flavours and textures of the seasonal ingredients.
The one dish in which we definitely want to indulge is the Shabu Style Toriyama Umami Wagyu. The beef featured in this dish comes from a farm dating back to 1948 which is renowned for its meticulous feeding practices involving grains, rice straw and miso, resulting in a wagyu that possess a subtle umami taste and refined fats for a unique tasting experience.
Chef Shingo uses the bottom sirloin, masterfully sliced, and brings out its unique nuances with charcoal-grilled Japanese eggplant. Though often critiqued for its subtle flavours, grilling eggplant on charcoal uncovers a deep savouriness. Combined with the thin slices of Toriyama beef quickly swished in a flavourful bonito broth, the dish is a showcase of elegant umami that lingers on your palate.
Iru Den's Sanma Claypot Rice
IRU DEN
One of the most wonderful aspects of visiting Iru Den today is Chef Javier Low’s celebration of Taiwanese produce at the very peak of the season. Thanks to his personal connections with trusted fishermen and farmers, Iru Den brings ingredients straight from the source to our tables – at their pristine best.
So it is without exaggeration when we say that their current menu is a bounty of the freshest, plumpest autumn harvest. For instance, many consider autumn to be the best season to eat sanma or Pacific Saury because the flesh is at the fattiest during this time. And at Iru Den, the Sanma Claypot Rice is only available during the autumn season.
The rich flavour of the fish and its fat infuses the rice to produce a bold but balanced flavour that makes you want more. What really enhances the enjoyment of each bite? Rather than leaving the bones in the saury, Chef Javier and his team painstakingly removes each and every single bone so every spoonful is a perfect bite of fish and rice, every time.
ASU: 30 Labrador Villa Rd, 119189
Esora: 15 Mohd Sultan Rd, 238964
Fat Cow: 1 Orchard Blvd, #01-01/02, 248649
Iru Den: 27 Scotts Road, 228222
