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The Fragrance of Spring

The Fragrance of Spring

Spring holds a special place in people’s hearts, and understandably so. After weeks and months of grey skies, icy rains and ferocious winds, who can resist the charm of gentle sunlit days, greening leaves and starry blossoms? And just like how the earth slowly awakens, our bodies, minds and appetites do, too!

Perhaps the seasonal changes don't feel as dramatic in Singapore where the weather moves from rainy to sunny, but the effect feels much the same. During the rainy weather, we craved rich foods and soupy dishes, and when warm weather descends, we look forward to the “spring harvest” – crisp vegetables, tender shoots and sweet fruit. 

Renowned American scientific historian and nature writer Neltje Blanchan asked, “Can words describe the fragrance of the very breath of spring?” Perhaps not in its entirety but food can help! Luckily, these restaurants know it too – and have prepared some refreshing spring menus perfect for the season.

Hero Image: Esora - Spring

AMI Patisserie

Spring heralds all things new – even in AMI Patisserie. The Chef’s Table Discovery Experience Menu in the Tsudoi Dining Room is renewed with fresh harvests of spring. Chef Makoto features both livestock and vegetable produce, pairing it in some of the most surprising – and delicious! – ways.

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Take, for instance, the delicate Hokkaido Crab Quiche with Hotate Kobujime, which features tarabagani from Hokkaido, a species often called the ‘King of Crabs’ in Japan. Considered in season right now, it’s prized for its abundant sweet flesh that is tender yet firm. Cradled in their signature filo tart pastry made with butter and honey is a bed of fromage blanc cream; and atop is a bounty of handpicked crab flesh, green apple from Aomori, Amela tomato, dashi jelly, Hokkaido scallop and housemade pickles from young ginger, also now in season. The young ginger, specially brought in from Shinshoga in Kochi prefecture, is sliced thinly, then boiled and cooled and pickled in a solution of kombu, water, light vinegar, sugar and salt.

Esora

Where better to taste the joy of spring than in one Michelin-starred Esora? The modern Japanese Kappo restaurant – which serves a kisetsukan-led cuisine inspired by Nature – introduces a wealth of Japanese spring produce in their refreshed menus.

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Their iconic Foie Gras Monaka, for instance, is updated with a zesty trio of Japanese citrus fruits – Dekopon and Hassaku oranges, and pink grapefruit while the wagyu beef course is accompanied by the tender green spring sansai (mountain vegetables) such as gyoja ninniku (mountain garlic), yama udo (mountain asparagus) as well as spring delicacy, fuki (Japanese butterbur). The sweet finish to a meal in Esora stars that classic Japanese beauty – sakura or cherry blossoms. A sakura flower ice cream is complemented with adzuki beans, deep-fried buckwheat, and a sakura leaf, alongside a delicate warabi mochi with Japanese black sugar syrup.

Fat Cow

As serendipity would have it, Fat Cow has unveiled a new offering – the Shiki Omakase or “Omakase of the Four Seasons”. A 13-course sushi experience ($88++ per person), the menu spotlights the freshest seasonal ingredients from Japan, celebrating the natural flavours and textures in a reflection of Head Chef Shingo Iijima’s deep respect for rhythms of nature and his mastery of washoku traditions.

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Currently featured in the Shiki Omakase include the Hotate, which has a meatier adductor muscle in March and April, and here served marinated in tamari rich in umami to elevate the sweet oceanic flavours of the Japanese scallop. There is also the delectable Kuruma Ebi, often mentioned as being in season during summer but which is considered in season in late winter and spring by sushi chefs because the flesh is sweeter then. In the Shiki Omakase, the juicy prawns are steamed with sake and topped with karasumi (mullet roe) slices.

Ichigo Ichie

From its beginning, Ichigo Ichie helmed by Chef Akane Eno featured fine Japanese kappo cuisine driven by the seasons with a spotlight on high-quality, exquisite ingredients prepared when they’re at their peak. Inspired by the Japanese philosophies of ichigo ichie – from which the restaurant takes its name – and sanpō yoshievery bite is a taste of Japanese authenticity filtered through Chef Akane’s artistic sensibilities.

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Take for instance this spring’s menu. One of the highlights is the Tachiuo Soramame Fry, a simple name that belies the rich yet fresh flavour of the dish. Though summer is normally thought of as the best season for beltfish or tachiuo, some chefs – like Chef Akane – prefer it in winter and early spring when the fish grows fatter and the flesh, richer and sweeter. To balance this, the fish is balanced with roughly chopped soramame or Japanese broad beans before being deep-fried so that the richness of the dish is balanced by chunky texture and fresh green flavour of the beans.

Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro

Singapore’s sole specialist in Chūka Szechwan Ryori – a distinctive style of Japanese-Szechwan cuisine, the one Michelin-starred Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro has delighted local diners with its unique flavours and refined dining experience. After its relaunch, the experience was enriched; in particular, the new Chef’s Table, designed for private gatherings, offers up to eight guests the unique chance to connect directly with the restaurant’s talented chefs. Served at the Chef’s Table is an experiential menu specially created to showcase the freshest seasonal ingredients from Japan, prepared in Chūka Szechwan Ryori-style.

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This spring, Japan’s crisp spring harvest such as pea pods and nanohana (rapeseed) bring balance to a rich claypot rice topped with Chen’s Mapo Tofu Stir-fried Tofu in Hot Szechwan Pepper-flavoured Meat Sauce. The rare Sakura shrimp – only allowed to be fished from Suruga Bay in Shizuoka during spring – is showcased in juicy, delicately pleated xiao long baos; while savoury mullet roe – particularly good during the spring season because of the drier weather and cool winds – is tossed with rice noodles, adding a rich flavour and texture to the silky strands. The meal ends with strawberries – now in season, and bright both in flavour and colour – paired with Szechwan Jelly for a refreshing sweet finish.


ADDRESSES

AMI Patisserie: 27 Scotts Road, Singapore 228222

Esora: 5 Mohamed Sultan Rd, Singapore 238964

Fat Cow: Camden Medical Centre, #01-01/02, Singapore 248649

Ichigo Ichie: Claymore Connect, #01-16/17, Singapore 238879

Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro: Hilton Singapore Orchard, Level 35, Singapore 238867